Regrouting a shower means removing the old, damaged grout and replacing it with new — a job that’s genuinely DIY-able if the damage is limited to the grout itself, but not a fix for a leak that’s already reached the waterproofing membrane underneath. This guide walks through the process, covers the epoxy-vs-cement grout decision, and explains where the line sits between a weekend job and one to hand to a professional.

Tools and materials you’ll need

  • Grout removal tool (manual scraper or an oscillating multi-tool with a grout blade — much faster for larger areas)
  • Vacuum for dust and debris
  • Grout float
  • Mixing bucket and paddle (for cement grout) or applicator (for pre-mixed epoxy)
  • Sponge and clean water
  • Grout sealer (cement grout only)
  • Painter’s tape to protect tile edges

Step 1 — Remove the old grout

Run the grout removal tool along every joint, working carefully to avoid chipping tile edges. Go deep enough to remove all the old material, not just the surface layer — grout that’s only partially removed won’t bond properly with the new layer over it.

How to remove grout from tiles cleanly: work in short sections, vacuum as you go rather than leaving dust to resettle in the joints, and check joint depth with a fingernail or small tool — you want to feel the tile edge, not leftover old grout, before moving to the next step.

Step 2 — Clean and prep the joints

Vacuum thoroughly, then wipe the joints with a damp cloth to remove fine dust. Let the area dry completely — grout applied over damp joints won’t cure properly and is one of the most common causes of regrouting jobs failing early.

Step 3 — Choose the right grout: epoxy vs cement

This is the decision that matters most for how the job holds up long-term.

Cement grout is cheaper, easier to work with for a first-timer, and available in a wider range of colours — but it’s porous, needs sealing, and will need resealing every 12–24 months (see our grout sealer guide for that process).

Epoxy grout is non-porous, doesn’t need sealing, resists staining and mould far better, and holds up longer under constant shower use — but it’s harder to work with (shorter working time before it sets, more technique-dependent to get a clean finish) and costs more per square metre.

For a shower specifically — constant moisture, the area most prone to mould — epoxy is generally the better long-term choice if you’re comfortable with the trickier application. For a first DIY regrout, cement grout with a good sealing routine is the more forgiving option.

Step 4 — Apply the new grout

Work the grout into the joints diagonally across the tile lines using the float, pressing firmly to fully fill each gap — air pockets in the joint are a weak point that fails early. Remove excess from the tile surface as you go rather than letting it dry on the tiles, where it’s much harder to clean off.

Step 5 — Clean up and cure

Wipe the tile surface with a damp sponge, rinsing frequently, until the tiles are clean and the grout lines are even. Let it cure per the product’s instructions — typically 24–72 hours — before the shower is used again.

Step 6 — Seal it (cement grout only)

Once fully cured and dry, apply grout sealer following the process in our grout sealer guide. Skip this step for epoxy grout — it doesn’t need it.

Grout vs tile filler — what’s the difference?

These terms get used interchangeably, but they’re not quite the same thing. Grout is the standard material used to fill the joints between tiles during and after installation — it’s designed to be a permanent structural fill. Tile filler is often used more casually to describe patching small chips, gaps, or worn spots without redoing the entire joint — useful for minor cosmetic repair, but not a substitute for proper regrouting when the damage is widespread or the joints have failed structurally.

If you’re dealing with a few small chipped spots, a filler product can be a reasonable interim fix. If grout is cracked, crumbling, or missing across multiple joints, that’s a regrouting job, not a filler job.

Best grout for a shower — quick summary

  • Best overall for showers: epoxy, if you’re comfortable with the application or hiring it out
  • Best for DIY/first-timers: cement grout, paired with a proper sealing schedule
  • Avoid: any grout not rated for wet areas — check the packaging specifically states suitability for showers, not just general tiling

When to DIY vs call a professional

DIY regrouting works well when:

  • The damage is limited to the grout itself, not the tiles or the waterproofing behind them
  • You’re comfortable with a precise, somewhat physically demanding job
  • The affected area is small to moderate

Call a professional when:

  • Grout damage is widespread across the whole shower, not isolated spots
  • You’re not sure whether the problem is just the grout or something happening behind the tiles
  • Tiles themselves are loose, cracked, or hollow-sounding when tapped — that points to a waterproofing issue, not a grout issue
  • You’ve regrouted before and it’s failed again quickly — that’s usually a sign of an underlying leak, not a grout quality problem

If you’re not sure which category you’re in, get in touch — we’ll tell you honestly whether it’s a DIY-friendly job or something that needs a proper inspection first.