To re-silicone a shower, you remove all the old silicone, clean and fully dry the joint, then apply a single neat bead of quality wet-area silicone and tool it smooth before it skins over. Done properly it’s a satisfying job that freshens up a shower and helps keep it watertight. But there’s an important catch: if your silicone is mouldy or the shower is leaking, new silicone on its own often won’t fix the real problem. Here’s how to do it right, and how to know when it’s a job for a professional.

If the silicone keeps going mouldy or the shower is leaking no matter what you do, book a reseal inspection — recurring silicone problems are usually a sign of something behind the surface.

What you’ll need

• A silicone removal tool or sharp scraper (and a plastic scraper for the tiles)
• A quality wet-area / bathroom silicone (neutral-cure, mould-resistant — not a general-purpose tube)
• A caulking gun
• Methylated spirits or a silicone remover solvent
• Masking tape, a clean cloth, and a mould treatment
• Gloves and good ventilation

The single most important choice here is the silicone itself. Wet areas need a proper neutral-cure bathroom silicone with mould resistance — the wrong product fails fast and goes black quickly.

Step 1 — Remove the old silicone

This is the part that makes or breaks the job. New silicone will not bond to old silicone, soap residue or a dirty joint — it just peels away. Cut along both edges of the old bead with a silicone removal tool or sharp blade and pull it out in strips. Then go back and remove every last smear, being careful not to scratch the tiles or glass. Take your time; a clean joint is everything.

Step 2 — Clean, treat mould, and dry

Wipe the joint out with methylated spirits or silicone remover to lift any residue and oils. If there’s mould in or around the joint, treat it now — sealing over live mould just traps it (more on that below). Then let the area dry completely. Applying silicone to a damp joint is one of the most common causes of trapped moisture and early failure.

Step 3 — Mask, apply and tool the bead

Run masking tape along each side of the joint for a crisp line. Cut the nozzle to the right size, and apply a single, continuous bead in one steady pass — corners and the floor-to-wall junctions first, as these are where leaks start. Smooth (tool) the bead with a wet finger or a silicone tool so it presses into the joint and leaves a clean concave finish. Remove the masking tape straight away, before the silicone skins over.

Step 4 — Let it cure

Leave the silicone to cure fully before the shower goes back into use — check the tube, but it’s typically around 24 hours. Rushing this ruins the seal.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Leaving old silicone behind. New over old = peeling within weeks.
• Sealing a damp joint. Traps moisture and grows mould from behind.
• Using the wrong product. General-purpose silicone isn’t made for wet areas.
• Filling gaps with silicone that should be grout (or vice versa). The flexible joints — corners and base — take silicone; the tile lines take grout.
• A thick, messy bead. One neat pass beats three heavy ones.

Mouldy or black silicone: clean or replace?

If your silicone has gone black right through, is cracked, or is lifting away from the tiles, cleaning won’t restore it — it needs to be removed and replaced. Surface mould on otherwise-sound silicone can sometimes be cleaned, but silicone that keeps going mouldy is telling you something: water is getting into or behind the joint and sitting there. (Our guide to black mould in the shower explains why it keeps coming back.) In that case, fresh silicone will look good for a few weeks and then go black again — because the real issue is behind it.

When silicone won’t fix it — and you should call a pro

DIY silicone is fine for a tidy cosmetic refresh. But it’s the wrong fix, and can even hide the problem, if any of these are true:

• The shower is actively leaking — water on the floor outside, or a stain on the ceiling below.
• The silicone keeps going mouldy within weeks of replacing it.
• The grout is also cracked or missing, or tiles are loose and drummy.
• There’s a musty smell that won’t shift.

These point to failed grout or waterproofing, not just tired silicone. The proper fix is a professional reseal — which removes the old silicone, treats mould, addresses the grout, and re-seals the shower watertight, usually with no tiles removed and with a workmanship warranty. It’s the difference between covering a symptom and stopping the leak. (See also the 9 warning signs of a leaking shower seal.)

Re-siliconing showers in Brisbane and the Gold Coast

Our humid Brisbane and Gold Coast climate is hard on silicone — it breaks down and goes mouldy faster than in drier areas, especially in showers without good ventilation. If you’ve re-siliconed your shower more than once and it keeps failing, that’s usually a sign the problem runs deeper than the bead. We can inspect it, find out why, and reseal it properly. We service Brisbane, the Gold Coast and Logan.

Not sure it’s just the silicone?

If your silicone keeps failing or the shower’s leaking, a fresh bead won’t hold. Book a reseal inspection with Leaky Showers and we’ll find out what’s really going on — and fix it for good.

Frequently asked questions

How do you re-silicone a shower?

Remove all the old silicone, clean the joint with methylated spirits, treat any mould, and let it dry completely. Then mask the edges, apply a single neat bead of wet-area silicone, tool it smooth, remove the tape, and let it cure (usually about 24 hours) before using the shower.

What silicone should I use in a shower?

Use a proper neutral-cure bathroom or wet-area silicone with mould resistance — not a general-purpose product. The wrong silicone fails quickly and goes black. The correct sealer is one of the biggest factors in how long the job lasts.

Why does my shower silicone keep going mouldy?

Silicone that keeps going mouldy usually means water is getting into or behind the joint and sitting there — often from failed grout or waterproofing. Fresh silicone will look fine for a few weeks and then go black again until the underlying problem is fixed.

Can I just silicone over old silicone?

No. New silicone won’t bond to old silicone or a dirty joint and will peel away. The old silicone has to be fully removed and the joint cleaned and dried first.

Will re-siliconing stop my shower leaking?

Only if the leak is genuinely from the silicone joint. If the shower is leaking through failed grout or waterproofing, new silicone won’t fix it and can hide the problem. In that case the shower needs a professional reseal.

How long before I can use the shower after re-siliconing?

Let the silicone cure fully first — typically around 24 hours, but check the tube. Using the shower too soon ruins the seal.

Most showers that people assume need replacing can actually be repaired or resealed for a fraction of the cost — a full replacement is only necessary when the waterproofing has failed or there’s structural damage behind the tiles. Before you commit to tearing out your shower, it’s worth knowing which camp yours falls into. This guide walks through the signs a repair will do, the signs you genuinely need a new shower, and the cost difference between them.

Not sure which you need? Book an assessment before you spend on a replacement — it often turns out to be a much smaller job.

The short answer: most showers can be saved

When a shower leaks, looks tired, or grows mould that won’t quit, the instinct — and often the first quote you get — is to rip it out and start again. But a full replacement is the most expensive, most disruptive option, and in the majority of cases it’s more than the problem calls for. The real question isn’t “replace or live with it” — it’s “can this be repaired, or does it genuinely need rebuilding?”

Signs a repair or reseal will do the job

You can usually avoid a replacement if the shower’s bones are still good and the problem is at the surface:

• The leak or mould traces back to perished silicone or cracked grout.
• The tiles are sound — not loose, drummy or lifting.
• There’s no structural water damage behind the walls or under the floor.
• The shower is dated or leaking but otherwise intact.

In these cases a reseal makes the shower watertight again — usually with no tiles removed, in a day, for a fraction of a replacement. It won’t change the look dramatically, but it stops the leak and the mould at the source.

Signs you may genuinely need a new shower

Sometimes replacement (or a full rebuild) really is the right call. The main triggers are:

• The waterproofing membrane has failed, so water is getting past the layer behind the tiles.
• There’s structural damage — rotten framing, damaged substrate, or water that’s spread into the floor or walls.
• Widespread loose or drummy tiles across the shower, not just one or two.
• The shower has been leaking for a long time and the damage has compounded.
• You’re renovating anyway and want a completely new look and layout.

When the waterproofing has gone, resealing the surface won’t hold — the shower needs to be stripped back and re-waterproofed to current Australian Standards. That’s a shower rebuild, and it’s the right investment when the alternative is water quietly damaging your home. (Our waterproofing guide explains how the membrane fails and why it matters.)

The cost difference: repair vs replace

This is where the decision usually gets made. Broadly:

• A reseal is the most affordable — often a few hundred dollars — and fixes most leaks without removing tiles.
• A rebuild of the shower (strip back, re-waterproof, re-tile) costs more, but far less than a whole-bathroom renovation.
• A full shower or bathroom replacement/renovation runs into the thousands and puts the room out of action for weeks.

The trap is paying for the most expensive option when the cheapest would have solved it. The trap in the other direction is resealing a shower whose waterproofing has actually failed — which just delays the inevitable. That’s why an honest assessment first saves money either way. (See our complete guide to leaking shower repair costs.)

The no-demolition middle ground

Many people don’t realise there’s an option between “live with it” and “rip it all out”. A professional reseal — and, where needed, a targeted rebuild — can restore a shower to watertight, functional condition without the cost, mess and weeks of downtime of a full replacement. For a shower that leaks but is otherwise sound, it’s usually the smartest choice.

How to decide

The honest answer is that you often can’t tell from the surface whether the waterproofing is intact — and that’s the single fact the whole decision hinges on. A proper inspection checks the seals, grout, tiles, base and, crucially, whether water is reaching the structure. From there you’ll know whether you’re looking at a simple reseal, a rebuild, or a genuine replacement — and you can spend accordingly instead of guessing.

Shower replacement and repair in Brisbane and the Gold Coast

In our humid Brisbane and Gold Coast climate, showers age faster and leaks are common — but that doesn’t mean replacement is the default answer. Plenty of showers we’re asked to “replace” only need a reseal. If you’re weighing up a new shower, it’s worth having it assessed first so you don’t spend renovation money on a repair job. We service Brisbane, the Gold Coast and Logan.

Get an honest answer before you replace

Don’t pay for a new shower until you know you need one. Book an assessment with Leaky Showers and we’ll tell you straight whether it’s a reseal, a rebuild, or a replacement.

Frequently asked questions

Should I repair or replace my shower?

Most showers can be repaired or resealed rather than replaced. A replacement is only necessary when the waterproofing membrane has failed or there’s structural water damage. If the tiles are sound and the leak is from silicone or grout, a reseal usually does the job for far less.

How do I know if my shower needs replacing?

The main signs are failed waterproofing (water getting past the membrane), structural damage like rotten framing, widespread loose or drummy tiles, or a shower that’s been leaking a long time. You often can’t tell from the surface, so an inspection is the reliable way to know.

Is it cheaper to repair or replace a shower?

Repairing or resealing is much cheaper than replacing — often a few hundred dollars versus thousands for a full replacement or renovation. A rebuild sits in between. The key is matching the fix to the actual problem so you don’t overspend or under-fix.

Can a leaking shower be fixed without replacing it?

Usually, yes. If the leak is from perished silicone or cracked grout and the waterproofing is intact, a reseal stops it without removing tiles. Replacement is only needed when the waterproofing has failed.

How long does a shower replacement take compared to a repair?

A reseal is typically done in a day. A rebuild takes longer but is still far quicker than a full replacement or bathroom renovation, which can put the room out of action for weeks.

Shower waterproofing is a hidden membrane installed behind your tiles and under your floor that stops water reaching the structure of your home. It’s the most important part of any shower — and because you can’t see it, it’s also the part most people forget until it fails. This guide explains how waterproofing works, the Australian Standard it has to meet, how long it lasts, and the signs yours has failed.

If your shower is leaking, or you suspect the waterproofing has had its day, book a waterproofing assessment and we’ll tell you whether it can be resealed or needs redoing.

What is shower waterproofing?

Tiles and grout are not waterproof. Grout is porous, and water passes through it over time. What actually keeps water inside your shower is a waterproof membrane applied to the walls and floor before the tiles go on. It forms a continuous, sealed barrier that channels water to the drain instead of letting it soak into the wall frame, floor and the rooms beyond.

Waterproofing is required by law in wet areas of Australian homes, and where it’s needed is set out in the national standard. On a shower floor, the whole area is waterproofed. On the walls, it extends up to set heights, and it wraps into the joints, corners and around the drain — the exact spots where leaks start.

Where waterproofing is required

Under the Australian Standard, wet areas have to be waterproofed to defined levels — more in the shower itself, less across the rest of the bathroom floor. In broad terms:

• The shower floor and the walls of the shower enclosure to a set height.
• All floor and wall junctions, and the joints where the walls meet.
• Around the drain, taps and any penetrations through the wall or floor.
• The bathroom floor more broadly, depending on the room’s construction.

The detail matters: a membrane that stops short, skips a corner, or isn’t properly bonded around the drain will leak no matter how good the tiling looks.

The Australian Standard: AS 3740 in plain English

Waterproofing of domestic wet areas is governed by AS 3740. It sets out where waterproofing must go, the heights it has to reach, and how the membrane and materials must be installed so the shower actually holds water for the long term. It exists because poorly waterproofed showers are one of the most common and most expensive building defects in Australian homes.

You don’t need to memorise the standard, but you should know that a compliant shower is built to it — and that a shower which was cut corners at build time will fail early. We’ve written a plain-English breakdown in our guide to AS 3740 waterproofing for wet areas if you want the detail.

How long does shower waterproofing last?

A properly installed waterproof membrane can last many years — often the life of the bathroom — but it doesn’t last forever, and several things shorten it:

• Building movement. Every home flexes and settles. Over time that movement can stress the membrane, especially at joints and corners.
• Poor original installation. The single biggest cause of early failure. A membrane that was applied too thin, skipped a junction, or wasn’t bonded correctly can fail within a few years.
• Failed silicone and grout above it. Once the surface seals let water in, the membrane is under constant load it was never meant to carry alone.
• Age and materials. Older membranes and cheaper products break down faster.

The takeaway: waterproofing is not “set and forget”. Keeping the silicone and grout above it in good order is what protects the membrane and makes it last.

Signs your shower waterproofing has failed

Because the membrane is hidden, you diagnose it by the symptoms it causes:

• Water stains on the ceiling or wall below or beside the shower. A classic sign water is getting past the membrane. (See our guide to a shower leaking through the ceiling.)
• Mould that keeps coming back no matter how often you clean it — often the first warning. (More in black mould in the shower.)
• Loose, drummy or lifting tiles that sound hollow when tapped.
• A musty smell that won’t shift, or paint bubbling on nearby walls.
• Swollen skirting boards or damaged flooring just outside the bathroom.

One of these on its own may just be tired silicone. Several together usually means water is reaching the structure — and that needs proper attention, fast.

Can you re-waterproof a shower without a full rebuild?

This is the question that decides the cost, so here’s the honest answer: it depends on whether the membrane itself has failed.

If the tiles and the membrane behind them are still sound and the problem is perished silicone or cracked grout letting water in, the shower can usually be resealed — watertight again, often with no tiles removed. This covers the large majority of leaking showers and is far cheaper than a renovation.

If the membrane has actually failed — or there’s structural water damage behind the tiles — then resealing the surface won’t hold, because the water is getting past a layer you can’t reach. In that case the shower needs to be stripped back and re-waterproofed to current standards. That’s a shower rebuild. The good news is that most showers we inspect only need a reseal; an inspection is what tells the two apart.

New build or renovation: getting it right the first time

If you’re building or renovating, waterproofing is not the place to save money. It’s a small part of the overall cost but the part most likely to cause an expensive failure if it’s rushed. Make sure it’s done to AS 3740, that it’s given time to cure before tiling, and that the corners, drain and wall junctions are properly detailed. Done right at build time, it should protect your bathroom for years.

Shower waterproofing in Brisbane and the Gold Coast

Our climate puts waterproofing under real pressure. Warm, humid Brisbane and Gold Coast summers keep bathrooms damp for longer, and through the wet season the surface seals above the membrane break down faster — which means the membrane carries more load, more often. Older homes and two-storey properties are especially worth checking, because a slow failure upstairs can quietly damage the ceiling below. If you’re local and seeing any of the warning signs above, have it assessed before the damage spreads.

Get your waterproofing checked before it costs you

A failed membrane doesn’t fix itself, and the repair only grows the longer water reaches the structure. Book a waterproofing assessment with Leaky Showers and we’ll tell you exactly what your shower needs — a reseal, or a rebuild.

Frequently asked questions

Are tiles and grout waterproof?

No. Grout is porous and lets water through over time, and tiles only shed water at the surface. What actually keeps water inside a shower is the waterproof membrane installed behind the tiles and under the floor.

How long does shower waterproofing last?

A properly installed membrane can last many years, often the life of the bathroom. Its lifespan is shortened by building movement, poor original installation, and failed silicone or grout above it that lets water in.

How do I know if my shower waterproofing has failed?

The membrane is hidden, so you look for the symptoms: water stains on the ceiling or wall near the shower, recurring mould, loose or drummy tiles, a musty smell, or swollen skirting outside the bathroom. Several signs together usually mean water is reaching the structure.

Can a shower be re-waterproofed without removing the tiles?

Often, yes. If the membrane is still sound and the leak is from perished silicone or grout, the shower can be resealed without removing tiles. If the membrane itself has failed, the shower needs to be stripped back and rebuilt.

What standard governs waterproofing in Australia?

AS 3740 sets out where and how wet areas in Australian homes must be waterproofed, including the heights on walls and the detailing around junctions and drains. A compliant shower is built to it.

Does my whole bathroom need waterproofing or just the shower?

The shower enclosure is waterproofed most thoroughly, but the standard also requires waterproofing across other parts of the bathroom floor and junctions depending on how the room is built. An assessment confirms what applies to yours.

A cracked or leaking shower base means water is escaping at the lowest point of your shower — where the floor meets the walls and the drain — and it’s one of the most common hidden leak sources in a bathroom. Whether it can be repaired or needs replacing depends on the type of base and what’s gone wrong underneath. This guide covers the causes, your options, rough costs, and how a leaking base ties back to your waterproofing.

If you’ve noticed water escaping the base of your shower, or a stain appearing nearby, book an inspection before it works into the floor structure.

How shower bases fail

The base takes more punishment than any other part of the shower — it carries your weight, holds standing water, and sits over the drain. Over time it fails in a few common ways:

• Cracked base or hob. Movement, flexing underfoot or a knock can crack a base or the raised hob at the front, letting water straight through.
• Failed seal at the floor-to-wall junction. The silicone where the base meets the walls perishes, and water tracks into the corners.
• Drain problems. A poor seal around the waste, or the base pulling away from the drain, lets water escape under the floor.
• Movement in the substrate. If the base isn’t fully supported underneath, it flexes and cracks the surface or the seal above it.

Cracked base vs leaking base — what’s the difference?

They often go together, but they’re not the same problem. A cracked base is a visible break in the surface — you can sometimes see the hairline, or the base flexes when you stand on it. A leaking base means water is getting out, which may be through a crack, or through failed silicone and grout at the junctions and drain with no obvious crack at all. That’s why a leak can be hard to pin down from the surface: the base can look fine while water escapes at a joint you can’t see. (Cracked tiles on the base tell a similar story — see why cracked tiles in your shower are a bad sign.)

Tiled vs acrylic and fibreglass bases

How your base is built changes the fix:

• Tiled bases are waterproofed with a membrane under the tiles, then finished with grout and silicone. Most tiled-base leaks come from failed seals or a failed membrane rather than the tiles themselves — which often means a reseal, or a rebuild if the membrane has gone.
• Acrylic and fibreglass bases are a single moulded tray. These can crack or craze with age and movement, and a cracked tray usually needs repair or replacement rather than resealing.

Knowing which you have is the first step in working out whether it’s a quick fix or a bigger job.

Repair or replace: which do you need?

The right call comes down to the cause and the extent of the damage:

• Reseal — if the base is sound and the leak is from perished silicone or grout at the junctions and drain, a reseal stops it, usually with no tiles or tray removed. The most common and most affordable outcome.
• Repair — a cracked acrylic or fibreglass tray can sometimes be repaired, depending on the location and severity of the crack.
• Rebuild or replace — if the waterproofing under a tiled base has failed, or there’s structural damage, the shower base needs to be rebuilt and re-waterproofed to standard. See our shower rebuilds service.

You can’t always tell which from the surface, which is exactly what an inspection is for.

How much does it cost to fix a shower base?

Cost depends entirely on the cause. A reseal of the base junctions is one of the more affordable shower repairs — far less than a rebuild. Repairing a cracked tray sits in the middle. Rebuilding a tiled base where the waterproofing has failed is the most involved, because the base has to be stripped, re-waterproofed and re-tiled.

The biggest factor in the final bill is how long the base has been leaking. Caught early, it’s often a reseal. Left to run, water gets into the floor structure and you’re paying to repair rot and framing as well. Fixing a base leak early is one of the cheapest ways to protect the floor beneath your bathroom.

How a leaking base ties back to your waterproofing

The base is where waterproofing works hardest, because water pools there before it drains. When the membrane or the seals at the base fail, water doesn’t just sit — it runs into the floor, the wall frame and, in two-storey homes, the ceiling below. That’s why a “small” base leak is worth taking seriously: it’s the part of the shower most likely to cause structural damage if it’s ignored.

Don’t let a base leak reach the floor

A leaking shower base only gets more expensive the longer it runs. Get a shower base inspection and quote from Leaky Showers and we’ll tell you whether it’s a reseal, a repair, or a rebuild.

Frequently asked questions

Can a cracked shower base be repaired, or does it need replacing?

It depends on the base. A cracked acrylic or fibreglass tray can sometimes be repaired depending on where and how bad the crack is. A tiled base that’s leaking because the waterproofing has failed usually needs rebuilding. An inspection confirms which applies.

Why is my shower base leaking but I can’t see a crack?

Many base leaks aren’t through a visible crack at all — they’re through perished silicone or grout at the floor-to-wall junctions or around the drain. Water escapes at a joint you can’t easily see while the base looks fine.

How much does it cost to fix a leaking shower base?

Resealing the base junctions is one of the cheaper repairs; repairing a cracked tray costs more; rebuilding a tiled base where the waterproofing has failed costs the most. The longer it’s left, the higher the cost, because water damage to the floor gets added in.

Is a leaking shower base serious?

It can be. The base is where water pools, so a leak there is one of the most likely to reach the floor structure, wall frame and the ceiling below in two-storey homes. It’s worth fixing early.

Can a leaking shower base be fixed without removing the tiles?

Often, yes. If the base is sound and the leak is from failed silicone or grout, a reseal fixes it without removing tiles. If the waterproofing under the base has failed, a rebuild is needed.

A leaking shower screen usually means water is escaping through worn seals, gaps or a poorly aligned screen — and while it often looks like a screen problem, the water it lets out can cause the same damage as any other shower leak. This guide explains why screens leak, the quick fixes worth trying, and when a leaking screen is actually a sign of a bigger waterproofing issue.

If water is escaping your shower and pooling on the bathroom floor, book a leak inspection — a screen leak that’s left alone can rot floors and skirting just like any other.

Why does water leak past a shower screen?

Screens are meant to keep water in the shower, and they leak for a handful of common reasons:

• Perished or missing seals. The rubber or plastic seals along the bottom and edges of a screen wear out, harden and split, letting water run underneath and out.
• Failed silicone. The silicone bead where the screen meets the tiles or the base cracks and lifts, opening a gap for water to escape.
• Gaps and alignment. A screen that’s dropped, twisted or was never sealed properly leaves gaps that water finds.
• Water running the wrong way. If the floor or base doesn’t fall correctly toward the drain, water pools at the screen and works its way out.
• The door itself. Worn door seals and drips at the hinges are a frequent culprit on framed and semi-framed screens.

Quick fixes worth trying first

Some screen leaks are genuinely simple to sort:

• Replace worn seals and sweeps. The rubber seals and door sweeps are replaceable and are the most common cause of a leaking screen.
• Re-do the silicone. If the bead where the screen meets the tiles or base has cracked, removing it and applying fresh silicone often stops the leak. (Getting this right is fiddly — the joint must be clean and dry, and the correct sealer used.)
• Keep water off the seal. Squeegee the screen after

The best leaking shower specialist is one who can find and fix the leak without ripping out your bathroom, backs the work with a warranty, and has the local reviews to prove it. A leaking shower is stressful and the quotes can vary wildly, so this guide walks through what a specialist actually does, the red flags to avoid, and the questions that separate a proper repair from a cheap patch-up.

If you’d rather skip straight to it, book a local inspection and we’ll show you exactly what’s wrong and what it takes to fix it.

What does a leaking shower specialist actually do?

A leaking shower specialist is different from a general handyman or a full bathroom renovator. Their whole focus is diagnosing where a shower is losing water and stopping it — ideally with the least disruption possible. That means:

• Finding the source of the leak (the seals, the grout, the base, or the waterproofing).
• Resealing the shower to make it watertight again, usually without removing tiles.
• Rebuilding and re-waterproofing only when the membrane has genuinely failed.

The key advantage of using a specialist is that most leaks can be fixed for a fraction of the cost of a renovation — if you use someone whose default is to repair, not demolish.

Reseal vs full re-tile: the no-demolition advantage

This is the single biggest thing to understand before you get quotes. A renovator’s instinct is often to rip out the shower and re-tile — a job that costs thousands and puts your bathroom out of action for weeks. A leaking shower specialist can usually reseal the shower instead, with no tiles removed, in a day, for a fraction of the price.

Both have their place: if the waterproofing has failed, a rebuild is the right call. But you want someone who reaches for the cheaper fix first and only recommends the bigger job when it’s genuinely needed — not the other way around.

Red flags and cheap quotes

The cheapest quote is often the most expensive in the end. Watch for:

• A quote with no inspection. Anyone pricing a shower leak sight unseen is guessing.
• No warranty. If they won’t stand behind the work, that tells you how long they expect it to last.
• Straight to demolition. Recommending a full re-tile without first checking whether a reseal would do it.
• Vague about the cause. A specialist should be able to explain where the water is escaping and why.
• No local presence, reviews or ABN. Hard to hold accountable, and often here today, gone tomorrow.

Questions to ask before you hire

A few questions quickly reveal who knows their trade:

• Can you find the leak without removing tiles?
• Will this be a reseal or a rebuild — and why?
• What warranty comes with the work?
• How long will it take, and how long before I can use the shower?
• Can I see reviews or examples of similar jobs nearby?
• Is the repair done to Australian waterproofing standards?

Clear, confident answers are a good sign. Dodged questions are a red flag.

Warranty and insurance

A proper reseal or rebuild should come with a workmanship warranty — ask for the details in writing. It’s also worth knowing that some shower leaks and the water damage they cause may be relevant to a home insurance claim, depending on your policy and whether the damage was sudden or gradual. A specialist who can provide a written report on the cause makes that process much easier. (Check the specifics with your own insurer.)

Why local matters

Hiring a local specialist isn’t just convenience. Someone who works in your area every day knows the housing stock, the common failure points in local builds, and how the climate affects showers here — and they’re easy to hold accountable through local reviews and word of mouth. If they’re just up the road, they can also get to you quickly when a leak turns urgent.

How Leaky Showers works

We’re leaking shower specialists servicing Brisbane, the Gold Coast and Logan and Beenleigh. We inspect first, find the source of the leak, and reseal wherever we can — no unnecessary demolition — with a warranty on the work. You can read what local customers say on our reviews page.

Get a straight answer on your leak

Don’t guess, and don’t pay for a renovation you may not need. Book your local inspection with Leaky Showers and we’ll tell you exactly what your shower needs.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a specialist or a general handyman for a leaking shower?

A leaking shower specialist focuses on finding and stopping shower leaks, usually without removing tiles — and can tell whether you need a simple reseal or a rebuild. A general handyman or renovator may default to a full re-tile that costs far more than the job requires.

How much does it cost to fix a leaking shower?

It depends on the cause. A reseal is far cheaper than a rebuild or a full re-tile, and the longer a leak runs the more it costs as water damage is added in. A specialist should inspect first and give you a firm quote rather than a guess.

What questions should I ask a shower repairer?

Ask whether they can find the leak without removing tiles, whether it’s a reseal or rebuild and why, what warranty they offer, how long it takes, and whether the work is done to Australian waterproofing standards. Ask to see local reviews too.

Can a leaking shower be fixed without removing the tiles?

In most cases, yes. If the leak is from failed silicone or grout and the waterproofing is intact, a reseal fixes it with no tiles removed. A rebuild is only needed when the waterproofing membrane has failed.

Does insurance cover a leaking shower?

It depends on your policy. Insurers often cover sudden water damage but may exclude damage from gradual deterioration, which can be treated as maintenance. A written report on the cause helps — confirm the details with your insurer.

Professionals find a hidden shower leak by testing the shower methodically — flood testing to see where water escapes, moisture meters to map where it’s sitting, and a close inspection of the seals, grout and base — so the source is confirmed before anything is opened up. The whole point is to locate the leak without ripping out your bathroom. This guide explains the signs of a hidden leak and exactly how the pros track one down.

If you suspect a hidden leak but can’t see where it’s coming from, book leak detection and we’ll find the source without guesswork or demolition.

Signs you have a hidden shower leak

A hidden leak shows itself indirectly, often some distance from the actual source:

• Water stains on the ceiling or wall below or beside the shower.
• Recurring mould or a musty smell that won’t shift no matter how often you clean.
• Loose, drummy or lifting tiles, or grout that keeps cracking.
• Swollen skirting boards, bubbling paint or warped flooring near the bathroom.
• A water bill that’s crept up for no obvious reason.

The tricky part is that water travels — it runs along beams and joints and appears well away from where it’s escaping. That’s why finding a hidden leak is a job for the right method, not guesswork. (Our guides on a shower leaking behind the wall and the 9 warning signs of a leaking shower seal cover the symptoms in more detail.)

DIY checks vs professional detection

There are a couple of simple checks you can do yourself before calling anyone:

• The dry-shower test. Don’t use the shower for a day or two and see whether the stain or damp area dries out and stops growing. If it does, the shower is a likely source; if it keeps getting worse without use, a plumbing leak is more likely.
• Look and feel. Check the silicone and grout for cracks, press the tiles for movement, and feel for damp around the base and skirting.

These narrow it down, but they won’t pinpoint the exact source or tell you whether the waterproofing has failed. That’s where professional detection comes in.

How professionals find the leak

A specialist uses a combination of methods to locate the source precisely and without damage:

Visual and tactile inspection

First, a close look at the usual suspects — the silicone seals, the grout lines, the floor-to-wall junctions, the base and the drain — and checking every tile for movement. A lot of leaks are found right here.

Flood testing

Water is introduced to the shower in a controlled way to reproduce the leak and see where it escapes. By isolating different areas, a specialist can work out whether it’s the base, a junction, the drain or the walls.

Moisture meters

A moisture meter reads how much moisture is present in the walls, floor and ceiling around the shower. Mapping the damp areas shows where water is collecting and helps trace it back to the source.

Ruling plumbing in or out

Part of good detection is confirming whether the leak is the shower itself or a plumbing pipe behind or beneath it — because those have completely different fixes. A leak that only appears while showering points to the shower; one that continues when it’s not in use points to plumbing.

Reading the results

Once the source is confirmed, you know exactly what you’re dealing with — and, just as importantly, what you’re not. It might be perished silicone at one junction, a failed seal at the base, cracked grout, or a failed waterproofing membrane. Knowing which means you pay for the right fix instead of a scattergun of repairs that may not touch the real problem.

What happens after the leak is found

Detection is only useful if it leads to the right repair:

• If it’s failed silicone or grout and the waterproofing is sound — a reseal, usually with no tiles removed.
• If the waterproofing membrane has failed — a rebuild to re-waterproof to standard.
• If it’s a plumbing pipe — a plumber’s repair.

The reassurance most people are looking for is this: in the majority of cases, a leak can be found and fixed without tearing the bathroom apart.

Shower leak detection in Brisbane and the Gold Coast

Hidden leaks are common in our climate — humidity keeps showers damp and helps mould mask the early signs, and in two-storey Brisbane and Gold Coast homes a slow leak can soak a ceiling before anyone notices. If you’ve got the symptoms but can’t find the source, professional detection is the fastest way to stop the damage. We provide leak detection across Brisbane, the Gold Coast and Logan.

Find the leak before it finds your floor

The sooner a hidden leak is located, the cheaper it is to fix. Book shower leak detection with Leaky Showers and we’ll pinpoint the source — no guesswork, no demolition.

Frequently asked questions

How do professionals find a hidden shower leak?

With a combination of methods: a close inspection of the seals, grout, base and drain; flood testing to reproduce the leak and see where water escapes; and moisture meters to map where water is sitting in the walls, floor and ceiling. They also confirm whether it’s the shower or a plumbing pipe.

How can I tell if my shower is leaking behind the wall?

Look for water stains, recurring mould, a musty smell, lifting tiles, or swollen skirting near the bathroom. A simple test is to avoid using the shower for a day or two — if the damp area dries and stops spreading, the shower is a likely source.

Can a shower leak be found without removing tiles?

Yes. Flood testing, moisture meters and a thorough inspection locate most leaks without removing tiles or opening walls, so the source is confirmed before any repair begins.

Is it the shower or a plumbing leak?

A leak that appears only while showering and stops afterwards usually points to the shower seal or waterproofing. One that continues when the shower isn’t in use points more to a plumbing pipe. Detection confirms which, so you get the right repair.

What does leak detection cost?

It varies with the job, but professional detection is far cheaper than the water damage a hidden leak causes if it’s left to run. Finding the source early usually means a simple reseal rather than a major repair.

If you have a leaking shower in Chermside, acting early can save you thousands in future bathroom repairs. What starts as minor cracked grout or deteriorated silicone can eventually lead to water damage behind walls, swollen skirting boards, loose tiles, mould growth, and structural deterioration.

At Leaky Showers, we specialise in professional leaking shower repair services in Chermside and surrounding Brisbane suburbs. For over 20 years, we’ve repaired leaking showers without removing tiles, helping homeowners avoid unnecessary bathroom renovations and expensive rebuilds.

Why Leaking Showers Are Common in Chermside Homes

Many homes and units throughout Chermside were built using older waterproofing methods that naturally deteriorate over time. Daily exposure to moisture, movement in the building structure, aging grout, and failed silicone seals can all allow water to escape from the shower area.

In many cases, homeowners don’t notice the problem immediately because water damage often develops slowly behind tiles and walls before becoming visible.

We commonly find leaking shower problems caused by:

• Cracked or porous grout
• Failed silicone seals
• Deteriorated waterproof membranes
• Loose or drummy tiles
• Water escaping through wall junctions
• Poor original bathroom construction
• Movement and settling over time

Fixing these issues early helps prevent more serious structural damage later.

Common Signs You May Need Leaking Shower Repairs

Many leaking shower issues begin subtly before becoming major bathroom problems.

Common warning signs include:

• Water damage on adjoining walls
• Swollen skirting boards or door frames
• Peeling paint near the bathroom
• Loose or cracked tiles
• Damp or musty smells
• Mould or mildew growth
• Cracked grout lines
• Silicone pulling away from corners
• Water appearing outside the shower area

If you notice any of these symptoms, it’s important to arrange a professional leaking shower inspection before the damage worsens.

Professional Leaking Shower Repairs Without Removing Tiles

One of the biggest misconceptions homeowners have is thinking the entire bathroom needs demolition once a shower starts leaking.

In many cases, we can repair leaking showers without removing tiles by addressing the source of water penetration directly.

Our leaking shower repair process may include:

• Regrouting shower walls and floors
• Replacing deteriorated silicone seals
• Sealing porous grout and tiles
• Repairing minor waterproofing failures
• Identifying moisture entry points
• Performing comprehensive leak inspections

This approach is often faster, cleaner, and far more cost-effective than a complete bathroom renovation.

Why Professional Repairs Are Better Than DIY Fixes

DIY shower repairs often only address surface-level symptoms rather than the underlying moisture problem.

We’ve seen many situations where temporary DIY products trap moisture behind tiles or fail within months, allowing hidden water damage to continue spreading.

Professional leaking shower repairs help ensure:

• The true source of the leak is identified
• Waterproofing issues are properly assessed
• Repairs are completed using professional-grade materials
• Further structural damage is prevented
• Long-term repair outcomes are achieved

Fixing the issue properly the first time can save substantial money and stress later.

Preventing Long-Term Bathroom Water Damage

Ongoing leaking shower problems can eventually affect much more than the shower itself.

Long-term moisture exposure may lead to:

• Damaged wall framing
• Swollen vanity cabinetry
• Lifting flooring materials
• Mould growth behind walls
• Damage to adjoining rooms
• Deterioration of waterproofing systems

Early leaking shower repairs are one of the most effective ways to protect your bathroom and avoid costly future repairs.

Trusted Leaking Shower Repair Specialists in Chermside

We’ve seen it all when it comes to leaking showers across Chermside, North Brisbane, and surrounding suburbs. Every bathroom is different, which is why proper inspection and diagnosis are critical before recommending repairs.

Our goal is always to provide practical, cost-effective solutions that stop water leaks and help extend the life of your existing bathroom wherever possible.

Whether your shower is leaking into adjoining rooms, causing visible water damage, or showing early warning signs, professional assessment can help prevent the problem from becoming far more serious.

Book a Leaking Shower Inspection in Chermside

If you’re dealing with a leaking shower in Chermside, don’t wait for the damage to spread further.

Contact Leaky Showers today to arrange a professional leaking shower inspection and repair service. We’ll assess the problem, identify the likely cause, and recommend the most effective long-term repair solution for your bathroom.